Showing posts with label RotaryMagazine. Show all posts
Showing posts with label RotaryMagazine. Show all posts

Friday, April 11, 2025

After being kidnapped abroad, Rotarian Julie Mulligan set out to live a more authentic life of Service Above Self

 

After being kidnapped abroad, Rotarian Julie Mulligan set out to live a more authentic life of Service Above Self



Clockwise from top: Julie with fellow Group Study Exchange participants before her abduction; a bustling street scene in Kaduna; a 2009 newsclip from a Canadian paper.

Courtesy of Julie Mulligan; Andrew Esiebo; Newspapers.com

By Photography by 

A man dozes in his bedroom. It’s around midnight, quiet except for the gentle hum of the TV. The phone rings, jarring him awake.

“John?”

“Julie? What’s wrong?”

“You haven’t heard?”

“Heard what?”

“John. I’ve been kidnapped.”

Julie breaks down crying. Then a man’s voice comes on the phone. Sharply, he demands 100 million naira — or about US$700,000 — for her safe return.

“We’ll call back,” the man says.

He hangs up.

Nearly 16 years have passed since that phone call from northern Nigeria to a home in Drayton Valley, a small town nestled between two rivers in central Alberta. Julie Mulligan has reflected on the events of April 2009 many times. How they changed her and her family. How they continue to stir complex emotions. How they engendered a deeper understanding of the nature of forgiveness and of our interconnectedness.

“This is Julie Mulligan. I’ve been kidnapped. I’m being held somewhere in Nigeria. I’m not feeling well and I probably have malaria. The kidnappers are sitting with me now. I need some contact information of Rotary members.”

Today, Julie and her husband, John, live in British Columbia, where they remain devoted Rotary members. And Julie has come to understand what happened to her, though still painful, as almost a gift, for it opened a path to seeing the goodness in people instead of the bad.

The journey to Nigeria is supposed to be a once-in-a-lifetime professional and cultural exchange opportunity for the five women traveling together. They’ve been accepted to a Group Study Exchange program through Rotary. For a month, they expect to explore different cities, visit government offices and cultural sites, and spend time in workplaces while living with Rotarian hosts. They plan to befriend a Nigerian team, whose members they will later host in Canada as part of the exchange.

Leading the Canadian team is Julie Mulligan, president of the Rotary Club of Drayton Valley. At 44, Julie is slender with caring green eyes, brown hair, and a quick, dry wit. She’s the oldest in the group, which is made up of four other professionals in their 20s and 30s, and she’s the only Rotary member.

Julie, who works in the insurance industry, is giddy. She loved her time in Africa the year prior, when she and John cycled through parts of Tanzania. She can’t wait to get back. A Rotary member since 2001, she’s especially excited to make new Rotary connections in Africa.

Located in north central Nigeria, Kaduna is a bustling and sometimes chaotic city of about 1.2 million. Although it’s a major industrial center, the town’s infrastructure and services have failed to keep up with its growth. Power outages are frequent, and many people lack access to safe drinking water. Across the state, also called Kaduna, about 45 percent of people live below the national poverty line.

Today, kidnappings have become a lucrative business and a growing threat in parts of Nigeria, including the state of Kaduna. In addition to armed bandits and criminal enterprises that use kidnappings for ransom to fund their operations, Boko Haram and other militant groups have carried out mass abductions for ideological reasons and leverage in negotiations with the government. In March 2024, gunmen kidnapped 287 school children in Kaduna state.

But in early 2009, this wasn’t the case. Back then, kidnappings were concentrated around the country’s oil fields to the south, in the Niger Delta, but in the north visitors were welcomed with open arms. In fact, showing visiting Rotarians the “real” Nigeria is something that Leonard Igini has always loved to do. As a member of the Rotary Club of Nassarawa-Kano, Igini has hosted visitors from Norway, Sweden, Japan, Canada, the U.S., and elsewhere.

And he is among the hosts for the Canadian group’s visit in 2009, with plans to later lead the Nigerian team that is to visit Canada. “The word ‘risk’ did not occur to any one of us,” says Igini about the local Rotary team, “because it’s something we have never experienced.”

On 16 April, about a week into the trip, Julie and her Nigerian host, Moses Kadeer, who belonged to the Rotary Club of Kaduna, are driving home from a Rotary meeting at an inn, where her exchange group members had been guests of honor. As they pull up to Kadeer’s home, a teal hatchback drives up alongside them. The driver rolls down his window and asks Kadeer a question — does he know so-and-so? When Kadeer says no, three men jump out and drag him from the front seat, throwing him on the ground.

Then they grab Julie. “Moses!” she screams as they beat her with a large gun. They shove her into the back seat and speed away.

For Julie’s husband, John, phone calls with her captors were agonizing. He was elated when the call that she’d been released finally came.

Image credit: Taylor RhodesJohn is in shock following the phone call with Julie. Usually, he’s a soft-spoken voice of reason when it comes to his family, whether it’s Julie, her two teenage children — Stephanie Dean, 19, and Mackenzie Dean, 17 — or his adult sons, Greg and Rob Mulligan. But this is uncharted territory.

John awakens Steph and tells her what happened. Then, he calls his sons and his most trusted friends, who also happen to be Rotarians. Within hours, Alex and Gayleen Blais, Mary and Terry Drader, and John’s son Greg have gathered round. Together, they debate what to do. Should they get to work gathering the ransom? Do they call the police? They decide on the latter, and by morning two agents arrive from the Royal Canadian Mounted Police, or RCMP, Canada’s national police force.

The agents tell John the kidnappers will likely call again soon. They write down the exact words John is to say when he answers the phone, and he is not to stray from the script. “They were scared the kidnappers were going to get more information about who I was, what I owned, what organizations I belonged to, all that kind of stuff,” John says, “which would lead them to increase the ransom.”

The agents motion to a chair at the end of a table and tell John that’s where he’ll sit until his wife is released. And, in no uncertain terms, they tell him they will not be paying a ransom. “The government of Canada does not negotiate with terrorists or hostage-takers,” says Peter Ryan, who was in charge of the RCMP’s extraterritorial response unit in 2009.

Then, they wait for the phone to ring.

In the morning light, Julie assesses the situation. The night before, she and two of the kidnappers were dropped off at a dark, desolate construction site. It’s clear now that they’re sitting inside the walls of an unfinished house, with dirt floors and no roof. She peers down at her dusty clothes — a blazer with intricate cutouts on the sleeves, cropped black pants and high heels — and recalls, sardonically, that she’d worn that same outfit not long ago at the Beverly Wilshire hotel for a business conference. Now, her arms and legs are covered in mosquito bites. And she no longer has her anti-malaria medication.

“You have 24 hours to put the money into this account. If you don’t do it, you may never hear from us — or from Julie — again.”

She’s starting to make sense of things. The driver — who’d returned temporarily and instructed her to call John — appears to be the boss. The two young men staying with her answer to him. In the daylight, they look to be about the same age as her teenage children. As lizards and scorpions skitter by, she starts talking to the guys, telling them about herself, her kids, her family. She shows them photos from her camera, desperate for them to see that she matters.

She asks them why they’re doing this. The younger one, who says his name is Anthony, needs money for school. The older one, who calls himself Oyo, just needs money, period. “They had this idea that in North America — in Canada — the streets were lined with gold,” says Julie.

She tries to negotiate with the two, to get them on her side. Her wedding ring, she says, could probably get them $1,000. “What if we left here, we sell the ring, and you get the money?” she asks. They don’t take the bait, and she tucks her ring into her bra — along with the photo memory card from her camera — for safekeeping.

Recognizing that Anthony and Oyo are not the masterminds but most likely pawns, Julie feels a kind of maternal connection to them. Years later, she will think of them as “the boys.” And as the situation wears on, Oyo starts to call her “Auntie.”

“John, when are you flying over here? When are you coming? What’s happening with the money?”

When she calls the next day, Julie’s voice is John’s salvation — she’s alive. It’s also torture because she’s distressed. She’s frightened. She’s impatient, even angry. And under the careful watch of the police negotiators, he’s not allowed to say what he really wants to say. “I had to stay calm. I couldn’t show emotion,” he says. “I couldn’t show my love. Because that would give the kidnappers more energy.


From left: David Alexander oversaw Rotary International’s response to the crisis; John and Julie look through news coverage of the kidnapping; Julie with (from left) fellow Drayton Valley Rotary members Mardi Dancey and Terry Drader, and Ross Tyson.

Monika Lozinska; Taylor Roades; Courtesy of Julie Mulligan; Newspapers.com

By now, the house is in full lockdown to squelch any news from spreading and putting Julie at even more risk. The Canadian authorities give John permission to have five couples join him at the house. Day in and day out, Rotary friends and family keep him afloat, even as the tension grows.

“There was a lot of commotion, and then a lot of stillness,” remembers Julie’s daughter, Steph. She and her brother are pulled from school and told they can’t talk to anyone. The house was like a submarine, closed off from the world, she says. “Everything was just so heavy.”

To escape the stress, Steph and Mackenzie take long drives. They listen to music and call their mom’s cellphone. “It would go straight to voicemail,” says Steph. “We would put it on speaker and just keep calling to hear her say, ‘Hi, you’ve reached Julie Mulligan.’”

As the ordeal goes on, the agents advise John that the kids shouldn’t be at home. They’re worried that the kidnappers could turn violent against Julie while on the calls. So Steph and Mackenzie are sent to stay with family and friends.

"This is Julie Mulligan. I've been kidnapped. I’m being held somewhere in Nigeria. I’m in an open-air house, getting bit by mosquitos. I’m not feeling well and I probably have malaria. The kidnappers are sitting with me now. I need some contact information of Rotary members."

The call comes into Rotary International headquarters in Evanston, Illinois. David Alexander, manager of Rotary’s public relations division at the time, feels his adrenaline surge as he answers the call. Sitting nearby, General Secretary Ed Futa takes instructions from the Canadian Mounties on another line. They’re trying to trace the call; keep Julie talking, the agents say.

It’s been several days since the kidnapping, and Alexander has been overseeing a Rotary crisis response team in close contact with the RCMP as well as with Rotary members in Drayton Valley. “We had never encountered anything like this before,” says Alexander, “and I think we all felt a real sense of responsibility to do everything we were told to do.”

Steadying his voice, Alexander’s brain goes into overdrive as he tries every tactic he can to stall the call with Julie. She asks for the phone numbers of specific Rotary members — presumably so the kidnappers can ask them for money — and he fumbles through a series of questions. “Can you spell that first name? Can you spell the last name? Can you tell me what Rotary club she’s a part of?”

The call ends after about a minute and a half — too short to trace. Then the phone rings again. “We’re working on it,” Alexander tells Julie, asking more and more questions. When she responds, she sounds frustrated, angry. “I’m in a serious situation and I need help,” she cries. The call cuts out. The phone rings again.

After the third or fourth call, all is quiet. Alexander sits there, haunted and afraid for Julie. “It was the most difficult half hour of my work life I’ve ever had,” he says. “It’s seared into my memory.”

On about the fourth night, the boss orders Julie into a car and they drive to a cramped house in a nearby town. Inside are two new people: a pretty young woman, whom she comes to know as Ann, and a menacing man named Christian. In her mind, Julie thinks of this as “the inside house,” and the previous site without a roof as “the outside house.”

“John, when are you flying over here? When are you coming? What’s happening with the money?”

The boss takes her to a small bedroom with bars on the windows. Now in her own space, she starts scheming. When Ann brings her breakfast — a drink similar to Ovaltine — Julie swipes the spoon and tucks it into a hole in her mattress. When no one’s watching, she uses the spoon to try to dig into the cement around the window bars.

To keep up her strength, she does biceps curls using bottles of water as weights; and when no one’s paying attention, she practices whipping the mattress off the bed to block the door.

There are so many things John wants to say to the man on the phone. He wants to say he’ll send the money. He wants to cry and tell his wife how much they all miss her. He wants to beg them to send Julie home. But he has to stick to the script. To pay a ransom could put other travelers at risk. Plus, there’s no guarantee payment would result in Julie’s release.

“Quiet,” an agent writes on a sheet of paper. John glares at them, but follows their orders, giving the kidnappers nothing. He’s terrified it will be the last call. “I cried for 24 hours,” he says.

Julie can’t understand why John isn’t paying the ransom. After more than a week, the kidnappers have lowered it to about $68,000. It doesn’t make sense that she’s still here this long. She’s been forgotten, she just knows it. She’s convinced that John has gone back to work. Everyone has gone back to living their lives. She feels abandoned and incredibly alone.

Messages of support from friends and family

Image credit: Taylor Roades

The kidnappers are growing increasingly agitated. Food supplies are dwindling, and rice is now the mainstay. During this time, calls start coming into the house. It’s a local woman, asking to speak with Julie, and the kidnappers allow her to take the call. Day after day, she calls to ask the same questions: Are you being treated OK? How is your health? What are you eating? Believing the woman was from a church or a local Rotary club, Julie would always answer the same: “I would tell her I think I have malaria. We have no food. I just want to go home.”

Twelve days into the ordeal, the phone rings at the inside house. Julie hears muffled conversations. Excitement. Something is happening. There’s talk of collecting money. But nothing happens.

The next evening, there’s new tension in the air. Anthony, Oyo, and Ann are running around frantically. They tell Julie to sit still. “Don’t open the door. Don’t open the windows. Don’t speak to anyone.” And they leave.

She learns later that Christian has been arrested. He’d gone to collect the ransom from the woman who had been calling the house. The woman turned out to be an agent of Nigeria’s State Security Service, and the ransom drop turned out to be a sting operation. His accomplice got away and got word back to the house that the jig was up.

Alone in the house, Julie is panic-stricken. She doesn’t know what’s happening. Then, Anthony and Oyo come back for her. In the dark of night, they lead her down a road, into a village. As people walk past and motorcycles stream by, Julie is frightened of everyone. The boys keep talking frantically into their phones. Then they stop and look at her. “Auntie, don’t follow,” Oyo says. And they run away.

She stands there on the side of the road, in the dark, frozen. Within minutes, a police officer approaches. Initially, Julie pushes her away. For 13 days, the kidnappers had been feeding her lies that everyone was out to get her. But then, she relents. She begins to accept that her ordeal is over.

Over the next day, she’s taken to different police stations where she gives her account of what happened, and she identifies Christian in a police lineup. Then, finally, accompanied by an RCMP officer who arrived soon after her rescue, she boards a plane and flies home.

“I fell in love with you twice. When you came down the aisle when we got married. And when you came down the aisle when you were rescued.”

Julie’s release makes the news before John hears about it, and his phone starts ringing. First, there’s elation. But only when he hears Julie’s voice on the phone, saying “I’m OK. I’m OK,” does it sink in. After nearly two weeks as a hostage, his wife is coming home.

When Julie’s plane lands, John is waiting for her at the jet bridge. It’s an image he will never forget. “She was coming down the aisle, and it was the greatest thing,” he says. “I still tell her that I fell in love with you twice. When you came down the aisle when we got married. And when you came down the aisle when you were rescued.”

Julie, who did not end up contracting malaria, returns in good health. They arrive home to a house full of friends and family in full celebration mode. The relief at being together again is indescribable. And yet, for the family, there are layers of trauma beneath the joy.

In the immediate aftermath, Julie struggles with feelings of abandonment; sometimes she has panic attacks when she’s left alone. John wants to keep her close, so much so that he stands outside the door while she showers. Steph has a breakdown when she can’t reach her mom on the phone one day. Mackenzie, they say, still prefers not to talk about any of it.

Julie finds healing in sharing her story. She travels to Rotary clubs to talk about the ordeal and raise funds to help women in Nigeria who suffer from a condition called obstetric fistula, a debilitating injury that can occur during childbirth. Despite her harrowing experience, she makes it clear that she had no regrets. A month after her homecoming, in a letter of thanks to Rotary members, she writes, “I want Rotarians to know that I still believe that the Group Study Exchange program is the best vehicle to promote cultural understanding and peace. It is second to none in shortening the distance between two countries.” 

To her relief, the Group Study Exchange team from Nigeria still travels to Canada, although the trip is pushed back a couple of months. For Igini, the visit makes a profound impression. Canada is the first place he’s been where people don’t always lock their doors or windows. To this day, he still tells his children about what he saw. “Mankind is one,” he tells them. “Everybody was at peace with each other.”

Clockwise from top left: Julie shares a laugh with a shopkeeper during a 2011 cycling trip in Sichuan province, China; Julie and John, who raised money to build a school in Nepal, visit the country in 2012; the couple trek to an Everest base camp with Calgary West Rotary members; the family celebrates Steph’s high school graduation; Julie gives a polio vaccine to a child during an immunization drive in India in 2013.

Courtesy of Julie Mulligan

Part II

After such a traumatic experience, some people might have lost their way. Julie seemed to find hers. As she learned about the people who fought for her, she was deeply moved by the goodness of humans. She read about thousands of people coming together in Kaduna for a candlelight vigil while she was held hostage. In Australia, students and professors at a university had been praying for her. She met a bishop who held prayer circles for her in Mexico. “There was just all this movement going on for peace,” she says. “My name was attached to it, but it was something so much deeper.”

“She couldn’t control that she was kidnapped, but she can control what she does after. She did not stop traveling. She did not stop going out of her front door.”

Back at Rotary headquarters, too, senior leaders up to the general secretary were deeply involved throughout the emergency, reviewing updates from the RCMP with their crisis team and staying in contact with Canadian Rotarians directly supporting the family. Their efforts were bolstered by staff members at Rotary whose responsibilities included monitoring the safety of global travel and assisting with emergencies.

Throughout her life, Julie had participated in countless service projects to help others. Now, she found herself on the receiving end of others’ kindness. It ignited something inside of her to do more, to not hold back. “When she was released, I thought our traveling was done,” says John. “And that’s when our traveling doubled.”

Within months, John and Julie traveled to Cuba. The next year, they did a group biking trip in China. In 2012, they raised money to build a school in Nepal and traveled there with the Calgary West Rotary club, trekking to a base camp on Mount Everest. And in 2013, Julie joined other Rotarians in administering polio vaccines to children in India.

But she also needed people to see her as a whole person, a complex human, someone who is more than a kidnapping victim. Living in a small town, that was hard. The motto of Drayton Valley is, literally, “Pulling Together,” and everyone had done just that when she was a hostage. But in the “after” era, she was struggling with that identity. In line at the grocery store, strangers would commend her for being so brave. In her job as a financial adviser, the veil between professional and personal felt permanently removed. She tried therapy.

Mostly, she found herself on a quest for authenticity. She threw herself into yoga, a practice she once despised but learned to appreciate for the focus and strength it demanded. She decided to become a yoga instructor. In 2017, they moved to British Columbia, to the stunning town of West Kelowna, where the mountains and lakes were teeming with the promise of adventure — and serenity. There, her life has become full and rich. She loves paddleboarding in the morning. She plays pickleball and gardens. When she and John aren’t traveling, they’re hosting visiting friends and family. And they’ve found yet another family at the Rotary Club of Kelowna.

Of course, she has emotional scars. There are nights when she’ll sit bolt upright in bed and start talking, waking John. She’s also highly sensitive to other people’s suffering. She broke down crying once after seeing a motorcyclist injured in a crash. Even scenes in movies can trigger feelings of distress and leave her sobbing. And she can’t stand to hear the TV at a loud volume. The kidnappers always had the television blaring at the inside house.

But other things conjure more positive associations. When she was held hostage at the inside house, she would eat a mango every so often, a welcome change from regular meals of rice. Today, the fruit holds a special place. “When I bite into a mango, I’m transported,” she says. “There’s something hopeful about it, in a weird way.”

Perhaps most surprising, she thinks fondly of Anthony and Oyo. They were not among the four people imprisoned over the abduction, and she wonders what they’re doing now. She remembers how, even in the worst moments, when she wasn’t sure she would live, she saw the boys’ vulnerability, and their bravado, and knew they were just kids doing what they thought they needed to do to survive.




Julie leads a yoga class; she threw herself into the practice for the focus and strength that yoga demands. She also loves to paddleboard. Image credit: Taylor Roades

Julie made it a mission to meet and thank the law enforcement officials involved in her case, traveling as far as Jordan, where one agent was based. It’s as though she was trying to show them, too, that she’s more than Julie Mulligan the kidnapping victim.

Ryan, who went on to become a chief superintendent with the RCMP (he recently retired), remembers an email from Julie nearly 10 years after the ordeal. She and John were traveling to Ottawa, where Ryan is based, and wanted to know if they could take him and his wife to dinner. “My wife, to this day, still speaks about it,” he says. Of all the hostage-taking investigations he’d overseen, this was the only one that led to a personal meeting afterward.

For Steph, watching her mother march on is inspiring. “Hard things don’t need to take you down,” she says. “She couldn’t control that she was kidnapped, but she can control what she does after. She did not stop traveling. She did not stop going out of her front door.”

If you ask Julie, she’ll tell you that her family bore the brunt of the trauma. Outside of those brief phone calls, they never knew if she was alive.

For all of them, it’s been a long recovery. But, Julie likes to think, they’ve come out stronger. “The kidnapping definitely changed my life. It changed my family’s life, for sure. But I like to think it was for the good,” she says. “I feel that life is a little sweeter when you know how quickly it can be taken away.”

This story originally appeared in the January 2025 issue of Rotary magazine.


visit :-

https://www.rotary.org/en/the-liberation-of-julie-mulligan




Espresso in a war zone

 

Espresso in a war zone

Adventure or misadventure, a roving correspondent finds enlightenment in a life of travels

By Illustrations by 

Travel is broadening, enriching, and sometimes a pain in the butt. Over the past few decades, I have been blessed to be able to see much of the world. I have ridden camels in India and donkeys in Jordan, and “flown” aboard the U.S. space shuttle simulator. But I cannot drive a car, an inconvenience at times and occasionally a downright pain in the rear. 

As the woman sent with me to Saudi Arabia as the producer for coverage of the first Gulf War resoundingly complained over the phone to our foreign desk, “You have sent me somewhere women cannot drive with a reporter who happens to be the one American male who doesn’t have a *&%# driver’s license!”

I did drive a Land Rover once, in the Serengeti. The guide of our expedition following a zebra migration invited me behind the wheel on my birthday. “What can you run into?” he said. “It’s empty and flat for miles.” Within minutes, I almost ran our vehicle into a gully and had a close call with an innocent wildebeest. The encounter only convinced me that the world is a safer place because I do not drive.

But I have bummed rides with many engaging people and been able to see all 50 states, the Hindu Kush mountain range, Bamiyan’s Valley of the Gods, the Eiffel Tower, the Great Wall of China, the Northwest Passage, and, no less awe-inspiring, the 1-ton fiberglass cow statue that presides over Janesville, Wisconsin.

I’ve endured innumerable flight delays and bumpy bus rides. I’ve had my winter coat stolen after an emergency landing in Halifax, Nova Scotia, during a snowstorm. I’ve slept on airport floors, thoughtfully carpeted, in San Francisco, Miami, Cleveland, and Newark, New Jersey, while waiting for flights to be rescheduled, and on the floors of train stations and hotel lobbies for various reasons.

Yet during all these years, despite occasional bumps in the road, I’ve also been welcomed by so many people, especially in war zones and areas contending with great suffering and strife. I’ve met inspiring people and seen extraordinary places, from the Taj Mahal and the bustees of Kolkata, to space shuttle launches and a tunnel of survival, dug by hand, shovel, and pick, under a field in Sarajevo that helped the Bosnia and Herzegovina capital survive its four-year siege. It’s time I put pen to paper on some of those tales.

I got lost in a jungle in El Salvador. I was covering the civil war there when the production crew and I drove to an area called Chiltiupán, southwest of the capital, to try to see the Salvadoran military’s bombings of jungle villages that harbored rebels. We came off the road to wander into villages and soon lost our way. This was before Google Maps, which may not show those villages to this day. It was also before mobile phones. One or two people in each village seemed to have a phone, but whom would we call? The Salvadoran military about which we were trying to report a story?

Getting lost is often the first in a series of unwelcome events, as was the case on this expedition. Our engineer fell below a waterfall, broke her arm, and caught a bad cold. We wandered through jungle for two days, slept on tall grass (not as blissful as it sounds), and grew so thirsty we finally drank pond water, which is an essential ingredient of typhoid. Once when I interviewed villagers along the way, I felt a thousand small bites being taken out of my legs. Fire ants! The folks we were interviewing stripped off my pants — bless them (true hospitality can take many forms) — slapped off the ants with rags, and doused my burning legs with vinegar. “Don’t worry,” a woman told me. “I do it to my children,” which is not the kind of reassurance a grown man, bright red with embarrassment, wants to hear.

Finally, we somehow got to a road and hailed a ride on a truck carrying coffee plant workers, who thought our whole story was pretty hilarious. We went to an ER back in San Salvador, where the staff put our engineer’s arm into a cast and told us, “I think you are not cut out for life in the country.” About a month later, I was one of several journalists whose name was put on an “enemies list,” and I didn’t even get a lousy T-shirt. As our engineer said, “You can’t even keep ants out of your pants.”

I’ve stayed in a few five-star places, with crisp sheets and deep baths, and in a barely roofed hostel in the Tigray region of Ethiopia in the late 1980s toward the end of a long civil war. Truck drivers transporting vital relief supplies would overnight at the hostel, exhausted and thirsty, and wind down with a mug or more of traditional tella beer. Wind down all night, it seemed to me and my producer, as we heard the drivers singing mournful Amharic ballads as we tried to sleep. The blankets looked as if they’d been used to smother fires, which they probably had, and we were told to pull them over our heads. “Won’t it be hard to breathe?” we inquired. The roadside hostel proprietor told us, “Yes, but that way, the rats won’t bite your faces.” Well then, enough said.

Yet as we learned, the rats were drawn by the presence of food. Therefore, they were oddly welcome visitors. I remember hearing tiny steps scuttle overhead and calling out to my producer, “Reindeer, I’m sure.” But we did not have to fall asleep hungry, like so many Tigrayans, or fearful. Travel can often remind us of what we cherish at home.

A few weeks later, we traveled to a camp in Eritrea that sought to give refugees food and shelter. We were walking through lines of people, handsome and looking haggard and worn from long journeys. We smiled and quietly asked them to tell us their stories.

Soon, I smelled coffee. My mind is playing tricks, I thought. It’s an effect of traveling in a war zone. I’ll just ignore it.

Then, I heard the distinctive gurgle of an espresso machine and was sure I heard pops of coffee-scented steam. “My nose and ears are playing tricks on me now too,” I told staffers from an international aid group who oversaw the camp. “I think I smell espresso.”

And so I did. The Zerai family had been forced to flee their home near Massawa, on the Red Sea, one night a few weeks before, carrying only the clothes they wore, a few family photos folded into pockets, small pieces of jewelry to offer as bribes to corrupt local officials along the way — and a small steel espresso pot.

“You must join us!” said the father, who pressed a small clay cup into my hands. The brew was sharp, dark, and fresh. Yes, I felt revived.

We sat down in the circle of their family: sons, daughters, an aunt and uncle, a cousin or two. They ground a few more blackened beans into a small stone bowl and boiled water from a relief jug. They told us their stories: the roar of bombs in Massawa, the gashing of treetops by regime artillery, the quick consideration of what they truly needed to dash into a strange and dangerous night to survive.

But soon, they began to ask about us. Where were we from? Why would we come there from fat and peaceful America? Did we know a cousin of theirs who was said to be in Oakland or Indianapolis?

“The coffee — it’s good?” they asked. I had another cup, and one more.

In a matter of minutes, our relationship changed. We were no longer reporters interviewing victims or refugees. We were guests being welcomed by a family. They were hosts, not refugees. We were travelers, sharing a few moments of — dare I suggest as much in the midst of a war, in the misery of a refugee camp? — rest, diversion, and even friendship.

Travel can put the most unexpected people together, in the most improbable places, and help them see how we’re all made of the same human clay.

I was going through customs at the U.S.-Canada border one February night when we were told the facility had to shut down. Immediately. There was audible grousing, even from Canadians, who are famed for their extraordinary courtesy.

When we noticed on the overhead screens that it was the final minutes of the Canada-USA men’s hockey gold medal match for the 2010 Olympics, grousing travelers became engrossed fans. Canadians and Americans went back and forth with each another. “That’s a great shot,” Canadians agreed as Team USA scored a goal to tie the game, forcing the match into sudden death. And then when Canada’s Sidney Crosby took a pass to score 7 minutes and 40 seconds into overtime, Canadians cheered, and Americans smiled. “Whaddya gonna do?” we asked. “It’s Sid the Kid.” That stalled customs arrival hall had suddenly become a place travelers were all glad to be.

While making our way to Bosnia to cover the siege of Sarajevo, a recording engineer and I noticed that the border guards of one Balkan nation in particular would help themselves to several small items on the top of our cases. Not jewelry, which we would not bring into a war zone in any case, but razor blades, socks, or toothpaste, which were hard to locate during war.

In time, we learned to pack extras on top, all but gift wrapped for official pilfering. But on one trip in, my entire toiletries case was nabbed. I despaired at borrowing spare items from colleagues for months on end. I mean, do you think reporters are a reliable source of fine grooming supplies? And so we went into a Sarajevo street that had carefully been turned into an informal market for personal items. People opened bags and cases to offer old or half-used tubes of toothpaste and antiperspirant, quarter-full bottles of shampoos and soaps, many of them likely left in the rubble of apartments shattered and bombed. A man looking to buy toiletries joked — at least I think it was a joke — “Hey, that’s my aftershave! It was a Christmas gift!”

For a moment, we felt less like travelers and journalists and more like Sarajevans, whom we so admired.

Our family now often travels across borders with our dog, Daisy, who rides in a carrier that fits under a seat. She is not a service animal, although that is honored service, but a member of our family.

Daisy, who is a French poodle, travels with a record of her inoculations in an EU document the size of a passport. As it includes her photo, we call it her EU passport. French border agents almost never fail to open Daisy’s passport and admonish her through the glass panel: “Look right, eh. Now left, eh. All right, it is you. You may proceed.”

This is advice easier to dispense than to live by, but unless you’re on your way to a wedding, funeral, or open-heart surgery, it is often wisest to see travel delays as spontaneous opportunities: to read a book, talk to those nearby, or simply take a breath and ruminate.

Our family missed a flight home from Arizona once because of a time zone mix-up. The airline booked us for the next day. But that meant a day of missed school, homework, meetings, work, memos, pickups, drop-offs, business email, and our whole array of quotidian responsibilities. We grumbled and whined about losing a day from our busy lives and spent it ... well, by a pool. With a waterslide! Playing, laughing, eating nachos, imitating the arms-out pose of saguaro cacti, and feeling that, in fact, our daylong travel delay had somehow added a day to our lives.


One of the most cherished memories of my life is landing in Chicago after an overnight flight from China, with our (now oldest) daughter in our arms, whom we had just adopted from an orphanage. We were dressed in stretchy gym clothes. The families alongside us in passport control, from Poland, Ireland, Nigeria, and elsewhere around the world, tended to dress in suits and dresses for the occasion. A man in a big-brimmed brown hat called out, “Simon family!” which was the first time we’d heard the phrase for the three of us. He checked and stamped our paperwork, then put his large hand under our daughter’s small, soft chin. “Welcome home, sweetheart,” he said, and we melted.

Scott Simon, a writer and broadcaster, is the host of NPR’s Weekend Edition Saturday. He has reported from all 50 states, five continents, and 10 wars, from El Salvador to Sarajevo to Afghanistan and Iraq. His books have chronicled character and characters, in war and peace, sports and art, tragedy and comedy. In the August 2022 issue of Rotary, Simon, a die-hard Chicago Cubs fan, wrote about baseball’s growing appeal around the world.

This story originally appeared in the December 2024 issue of Rotary magazine.

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This story appeared in the February 2018 issue of Rotary magazine.

 

This story appeared in the February 2018 issue of Rotary magazine. 


Jimmy Carter received the Nobel Peace Prize in 2002 for his decades of work resolving international conflicts and advancing human rights.

 

It’s a crisp, sunny day in late October, and school groups are touring the Jimmy Carter Presidential Library in Atlanta. 

They see the Bible that the 39th U.S. president took his oath on, a campaign ledger, and a mockup of the Oval Office – as well as his diploma in square dancing, a “Peanuts to President” game board, and a Marvel comic with the Carter family joining Captain America in saving energy. 

At the end of the exhibit is Carter’s Nobel Peace Prize, which he received in 2002 in recognition of his decades of work advancing peace and human rights. 

“This is the biggest award in the world,” one of the field trip leaders explains to the elementary school students. Then she puts it into terms they will understand: “This is bigger than the Super Bowl MVP, believe it or not.”

Perhaps she should have mentioned his two Grammys.

Carter has spent his life fighting for peace: brokering the 1978 peace talks between Egypt and Israel that led to the Camp David Accords, paving the way for a nuclear pact between the United States and North Korea in 1994, and monitoring elections in Panama, Nicaragua, Venezuela, and other places where the ballot box became an alternative to civil war. During his time in office, from 1977 to 1981, the United States was not involved in any wars.  

For the past 37 years, Carter has been redefining what it means to be a retired president – and the country’s longest-lived one at that, having surpassed Herbert Hoover (who lived 31 years after leaving the White House). During his presidency, Carter made a commitment to human rights the cornerstone of his foreign policy; he and his wife, Rosalynn, continued that emphasis when they founded the Carter Center in 1982. The center’s programs revolve around two main themes: peace and health.

“We feel that there’s a human right of people to live in peace,” he told The Rotarian. “We feel it’s a human right to have a modicum of health care, to have a decent place in which to live, to have a chance to have an education, to have freedom of speech and freedom of religion and the right to elect your own leaders.”

The center has observed 105 elections, including recent contests in Liberia, Kenya, the Philippines, Zambia, and Guyana, and it has worked with the United Nations and other groups to develop standards for democratic elections. When democratic avenues fail, the center mediates armed conflicts. It is currently involved in efforts to resolve the Israeli-Palestinian conflict, as well as conflicts in Sudan and South Sudan, Syria, and Liberia; it’s also working to combat the rise in violent religious extremism and Islamophobia in Europe, the Middle East, and the United States.

On other fronts, the Carter Center has formed a task force on disease eradication. The only one of its kind in the world, it analyzes data to ascertain which diseases could be eradicated from the entire world. The center is focusing on eradicating Guinea worm disease and regionally eliminating five other diseases: river blindness, trachoma, schistosomiasis, lymphatic filariasis, and malaria.

“I might say if Rotary wasn’t leading that fight to eradicate polio now, the Carter Center would – it’s the kind of thing that would be very exciting for us,” Carter says. “We’re very proud to see the progress that Rotary has had with that.”

Carter knows the power of service organizations well – he’s a member of the Lions club in his hometown of Plains, Georgia, and a past district governor. And for more than 30 years the Carters have dedicated a week each year to volunteering with Habitat for Humanity.

Carter spoke with senior staff writer Diana Schoberg by phone from his home in Plains on Halloween. Still very involved in the community where his family has lived since 1833, he planned to go downtown that night to join other local leaders in greeting trick-or-treaters.

The Carters have volunteered with Habitat for Humanity for more than 30 years.

Q: The Carter Center describes itself as waging peace. If peace isn’t merely the absence of war, describe the battle for peace.

A: We take peace not as a dormant situation, but as one to be fought for – like winning an armed conflict. We try to be aggressive in order to bring about that goal. We are not constrained at the Carter Center by policies of the United States government, although we have to comply with the law. We deal with people who are outcasts, or unsavory. I’ve been to North Korea three times, and I’ve probably spent more than 20 hours with their top leaders talking about the prospects of peace. We’ve also continued to deal with both Palestinians and Israelis. We have a relationship with the president of Sudan, Omar al-Bashir, who the United States refuses to deal with. We try to probe aggressively to find ways to bring about a peaceful understanding between adversaries, but I always make a point to get permission from the White House before I embark on such an adventure.

Q: How do you work with people who are arguing with each other?

A: I wrote a book, Talking Peace, about that. People who are at war, or a couple with a marital difference that leads to divorce, or parents who are alienated from children, or students divided on a campus – all have a difference of opinion that they can resolve.

When I founded the Carter Center, I wanted it to be a little Camp David, where I negotiated with people who were at war. But I soon found that sometimes when two sides were fighting in a civil war, they didn’t even want me to talk to the other side – they despised their adversaries that greatly. So instead of negotiating, we discovered that we could appeal to them by taking advantage of a basic premise of politics, and that is self-delusion. We would go to the generals of the two sides separately and say, why don’t you let us come in and help you hold an honest election – we’re sure that the people of your country will choose the right person to be the leader. And since both sides thought they would be victorious in a peaceful election if we were in charge of it, they would go along with it. So we’ve now done more than 105 elections in the world, each without trouble, and many of them brought about by adversaries who found an election to be a better alternative than continued combat.

A: Is there something that you’ve learned monitoring elections that would surprise our readers?

Q: We’ve found that the United States doesn’t meet the criteria for the Carter Center, because our elections are not conducted properly here. We don’t have one central election commission that makes the decisions for our country – we have counties that decide exactly how people vote and what time they vote. The Carter Center requires uniformity in the whole country.

Jimmy Carter has written 30 books, including A Call to Action, released in December 2014.

In most countries where we work, we require that every candidate who is qualified have an equal chance to present their proposals to the public, with uniform access to the public news media and to the people’s minds. We try to minimize the impact of financial contributions within an election, not always successfully.

The United States has changed from a democracy to something of an oligarchy in the last few decades; the candidates who seek to be president have to raise a minimum nowadays of $200 million before they can hope to receive the Democratic or Republican nomination, and then a lot more later, when they run against the opposite party’s candidate.

Q: What would the United States have to do to fix its election system?

A: The main thing is to have public financing. When I ran for president in the general election against incumbent President Gerald Ford, he and I raised a total for the general election of zero. We didn’t go to anybody and ask for a campaign contribution. When I ran against Ronald Reagan in 1980, again we got zero money from any private contributor. We just used the box on the federal income tax form that each taxpayer could check to contribute. Nowadays every vote is not the same. The candidates rely on very wealthy people to help them become a nominee and be elected president, and then they’re obligated to those financial contributors when they get into office. The wealthy people get more wealthy and the powerful people get more powerful and the average person doesn’t have an equal influence on the American government anymore.

Q: Techniques to influence elections have evolved beyond stuffing ballot boxes. We are now seeing hacking and social media algorithms affecting outcomes. How is the Carter Center responding?

A: The Carter Center is studying the voting process. In many other countries, even in a nation like Venezuela, they have a voting system where you indicate your preference by a touch screen, and that’s transmitted to the central headquarters. Then you look at the screen and if it’s how you want it, you punch a button and it prints out a paper ballot. If a question is raised subsequently about the integrity of the election, you’ve got the electronic system that has given you an opportunity to have very early tabulation and then you’ve got the paper system to substantiate the accuracy of it. We don’t have that in our country, except in rare places. There’s no uniformity at all in America. I’m not criticizing my country, I’m just pointing out some possibilities for improvement.

Q: In its mission statement, the Carter Center recognizes that because it is tackling difficult problems, failure is an “acceptable risk.” Why?

A: When we began our work, we decided that we would be nonpartisan in nature, and we decided that we would not duplicate what other people were already doing well. If the United Nations or the United States government or Harvard University was taking care of a problem, we wouldn’t get involved in it. Instead, we’d fill vacuums in the world. Another thing that we decided, which is what you just mentioned, is that we would not be afraid of failure. If we think that something is worth doing, we make an all-out effort – even if we don’t have any assurance at the beginning that we’ll be successful. We’ve had some disappointments and we’ve had to change our priorities on some occasions, but that’s led us into some of the most fruitful things that we’ve done.


In 1978, as president, Carter orchestrated peace talks between Egyptian President Anwar Sadat, left, and Israeli Prime Minister Menachem Begin, right. The talks served as a model when the former president and his wife founded the Carter Center in 1982.


Jimmy Carter, with his wife, Rosalynn, and their daughter, Amy, at the 1980 Democratic National Convention.

Q: Can you give us an example?

A: Addressing Guinea worm, or dracunculiasis, was one of those that seemed hopeless. There was no known cure or successful treatment for it. It was found in 21 different countries. It was found in isolated villages that had no connection to one another. Often, ministers of health had never heard of the disease. It was one of those problems that nobody else wanted to address, so we had a chance to fill a vacuum. We had no assurance of success because until we began, there was no effective way to correct the problem. We’ve come a long way. We still face some unforeseen developments, but we are resolved to succeed. We’ve cut the number of cases of Guinea worm from 3.5 million the first year [1986] to 27 so far in 2017.

Q: You’ve been very close to eradicating Guinea worm for a while, just like Rotary has been very close to eradicating polio. What has made it so intractable?

A: We had a surprising development in the country of Chad a few years ago. We had zero cases of Guinea worm in Chad for nine years and all of a sudden we had another very small outbreak and we found that dogs were involved with transmission, and almost everybody who lives along a particular river in Chad has a dog. We’ve had to deal with this new outbreak just like you’ve had some setbacks with polio, but we’re not giving up.

Q: Being president of the United States would seem like the pinnacle of a person’s career, but after you left office, you went on to become one of the most respected humanitarians of our time. What did your work as president teach you? And was there anything that you only learned later?

A: When I was president, I learned about the interrelationships between countries and the differences between the people who live on the earth. I learned about problems like the threat of nuclear destruction, and we had a first glimpse of global warming at that time. I learned how important peace was: I was lucky enough to have kept our country completely at peace while in office – we never dropped any bombs or launched any missiles or fired any bullets.

Since I’ve been out of the White House, I’ve had much more intimate relationships with individual people than I ever did when I was president, particularly with people in foreign countries.

Q: When meeting regular citizens, what has made the biggest impression on you?

A: We tend to underestimate folks who have an average income of only one or two dollars a day, who don’t have good educations or decent homes. We think they’re inferior to us in some way because they haven’t provided for their families as we have. When we deal with them on a personal basis, we soon learn that they’re just as good as we are, they’re just as intelligent, just as ambitious, just as hard-working. Their family values are just as good as ours. We also learn that their perspective on life is different from ours, often because of the circumstances in which they’ve been born and raised. But we learn to respect them just as much as we respect ourselves.

Q: If you could do one thing to make the world a better place, what would that be?

A: The only time the human race has ever attempted to bring into reality the finest moral and ethical values of all the great religions was right after the Second World War, after 60 million people were killed. We organized the United Nations to guarantee that disputes would be resolved as they arose. That hasn’t happened. We still have multiple wars. Three years later, in 1948, the United Nations adopted the Universal Declaration of Human Rights, which guaranteed people equal rights. Those two things have been a dream or ideal or vision or aspiration or an inspiration, but they haven’t been realized. I would mandate that disputes be resolved peacefully and that the declaration be implemented. That’s what I pray for, and that’s what I hope will eventually happen. 

• This story originally appeared in the February 2018 issue of Rotary magazine 


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